Installing your fenders

1. If attached, remove V-stays from fenders. Loosen the nuts, just enough to slide the wires out.

    The nut/screw will fall, once the wire is removed. DO NOT LOSE THE NUTS/SCREWS!

    Set the stays, and nuts/screws aside in a safe place. 

2. Remove wheels as needed. It may be possible to install the fenders without removing the front wheel, but the rear  wheel will most certainly need to be removed.         

3. Front wheel:  Attach L-bracket to fork crown. Some brake types will be bolted through the crown. If so, remove brake, and skewer the slot of the L-bracket with the brake bolt. Replace brake. If you specified that your bike has cantilever brakes, or disc brakes, your hardware packet will include a 6mm x 45mm machine screw and locking nut. 

4. Rear wheel: Attach tab at forward end of fender to hole in chain stay bridge. A 5mm x 25mm machine screw is included with a locking nut. If your bike has a threaded hole, use one of the shorter screws included. 

    The tab may be bent like a lazy "Z" to adjust the gap between the tire and fender. 

5. Replace wheels. The fenders will be loosely tethered with one point of attachment each.

6. Find the V-stays and 5mm x 12mm screws, and 5mm x 16m screws. The plastic thing on the vertex of the stay is a break-away safety device. These go on the front. It is meant to prevent a forward flip in the case that something gets caught between tire and fender.

7. Temporarily attach the V-stays.

    Using a marker, mark the wires for cutting. The end of the wire should end just past the attachment point, and within the plastic housing. One end of the "V" will probably be longer than the other. This is normal.

8. Remove the stays, and cut them to length. 

    Possible cutting tools you may have:

    -bolt cutter

    -Vise Grips pliers

    -hack saw

    -diagonal cutters  ("dikes")

In the worst case scenario, you may remove the plastic end caps, and leave the wires long.

DO NOT REVERSE THESE NEXT TWO STEPS: (unless you want a lesson in futility)  ;)

9. Re-attach the wires to the fender brackets. (loosely- you will need to adjust)

10. Attach the stays to the eyelets at the end of the forks, and rear triangle with the 5mm screws aforementioned. 

11. Rear fender: The funny looking bracket in the plastic bag is a "crimp-on" bracket. It attaches to the rear brake bolt.    

    (or if your bike has cantilever or disc brakes, it attaches to the brake bridge with the 6mm x 25mm machine screw & locking nut.)

    Remove brake, and replace with said bracket skewered between brakes and bridge. It will ride on top of the fender, with the tabs hanging over the sides.

    Using pliers, carefully bend the ends of the bracket around the edges of the fender until tight. THIS IS A CRUCIAL STEP, once completely crimped, the connection is permanent. Make sure all other adjustments are made before using your full hand strength to secure the crimp-on bracket to the fender. (see next step)

11.5 Make any adjustments necessary. Side to side alignment is done by sliding wires back and forth with loosened nuts. Wires can be bent slightly if needed. Brake mounting points can be adjusted via the slot. 

12. Once you are satisfied with spacing and alignment, tighten every screw, and nut. Make a final plier clench to the crimp-on bracket. Pay attention on your first few rides to make sure everything is still adjusted correctly.